BBC reporter James Rodgers got to go on a rare trip inside Chechnya, a place the Kremlin insists is "getting back to normal." However, Rodgers sees fertile ground for the seeds of future conflict.
While appearances have improved strikingly, there is nothing normal about Chechnya. Armed men are everywhere.
Something terrible has clearly happened here in recent years. Thousands of people are still missing.
The new facades reminded me of the verse from St Matthew's gospel, which Joseph Conrad refers to in Heart Of Darkness.
"Like unto whited sepulchres, which indeed appear beautiful outward, but are within, full of dead men's bones."
The Chechens have not recovered. How could they? I felt they were simply glad the bombing has stopped.
There seem to be few jobs for men except joining one of the various security forces. Women work on market stalls or in cafes. ...
The Council of Europe delegation visited a school. What did these six and seven-year-olds want to be when they grew up?
"A policeman," said almost all the boys.
I also visited Ingushetia, the region to the west of Chechnya. This used to be a safe place. No longer. Militants are killing local officials and ethnic Russians.
The groups who are trying to reignite conflict in the Caucasus have plenty to work with. Stories that the Russians and their Chechen allies do not trust each other are easy to believe. ...
I did not feel that the north Caucasus was about to explode again. People are exhausted and the rebels are now thought to number only a few hundred.
But the missing and the dead have relatives and Chechnya has a long tradition of blood feuds.
There are countless unemployed young men.
Moscow must persuade them and their younger brothers that they have a future. If not, joining the militants may appeal more than joining the police.