An NYT piece has the following recommendations about 'za in the land that gave birth to the world's most perfect form of food:

Going to Naples without eating pizza, its best-known culinary invention, is heresy. Pizza is a religion there, and the Neapolitans have solved its most common challenge with the quattro stagioni, which is divided into four sections, each with a different topping. Da Michele, (4) Via Cesare Sersale 1/3, (39-081) 5539204, www.damichele.net, is perhaps the city's most revered pizzeria. Those not in the mood for crowds - or a margherita or marinara pizza, its only offerings, at $4.50 to $5.70 - should head for another, more comfortable Da Michele, with a different (and distantly related) owner, (5) at Via Giuseppe Martucci 61, (39-081) 19576887; closed Monday. Its huge $8.25 quattro stagioni is topped with ham, artichokes, mozzarella and mushroom.